(M+M) Aug 7 - 9: A Short Gros Morne Tour

Canada is known for the beauty and diversity of its National Parks, and Gros Morne is one of the outstanding jewels in the entire system. Moreover, the Newfoundland and Labrador weather gods took pity on us and let us enjoy two action-packed days in the park in warm, sunny, clear weather.

On day 1 (Aug 7) we left Lomond River campground and rode over a twisty route down along side the Bonne Bay fjord. Roughly speaking, Bonne Bay cuts the park in two, with the north section containing the Western Brook Pond (famous for the huge granite cliffs coming down into an inky-black lake) and Gros Morne mountain. Rocky Harbour, the main town in the area, is also on the north side. The south side has an outstanding natural feature -- the Tablelands. This huge golden-orange chunk of mesa rises above all the other features on the south side. It is a chunk of the earth's mantle that has been thrust up above sea level. Exposed mantle like this is very rare, and it is this feature that gives Gros Morne its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.

One of the bigger communities on the south side is Woody Point. We caught a water taxi here and ferried across the bay to Norris Point in the north of the Park. As an extra treat we saw whales on our crossing. The skipper slowed down and followed them for a few minutes. These were Minke whales, and are often found in these waters.

From Norris Pt. we stopped for 2nd breakfast (Pittman's -- highly recommended) and then hurried on to the Norris Pt. KOA. Here we set up the tent and proceeded to the 2nd part of the day, a hike up Gros Morne mountain. At 806 metres this is the 2nd highest point on the island. We rode to the trail head and spent six very enjoyable hours on the mountain. The trail itself is 16 km long and gives commanding views over almost the entire Park. The mountain is a huge, hulking chunk of granite with a rounded top that lets you wander pretty much as you like. Highlights of the hike were the Ptarmigan, Woodland Caribou, and moose we saw at the top. The Caribou, which are the symbol of Newfoundland, were particularly impressive with their huge racks of antlers.

Day 2 (Aug 8) saw us move camp from the Norris Pt. KOA to a B&B in Rocky Harbour. From here we breakfasted at the Treasure Box and bought tickets for the Western Brook Pond boat tour. The tour was set to go at 4:00 pm. The Pond is about 26 km north of Rocky Harbour, so we decided to ride out and have a look around at the coastal plain. We visited the Lobster Head lighthouse, and stopped at Green Point (Lisa Spellacy did her graduate work here -- what a fine spot to work!). Then it was on to the tour.

To get to the tour boat you have to cross about 3 km of bog on a wide and well maintained path. We rode our bikes along this path, viewing moose along the way, and arrived at the tour just in time to climb on the tour boat. The view of the huge granite cliffs as we motored under them was out of this world. I would like to go back and do the back-country hike along the North Rim of the Pond.

The tour finished and we jumped on the bikes and headed back to town. We arrived back around 8:00 pm and finished the day with fish cakes at the Sunset Cafe. These are a delicacy of the area and were very tasty -- salt cod, onions, and potatoes.

Day 3 (Aug 9) had us on the bikes and humping over some huge hills along the north shore of Bonne Bay. After some striking scenery we made it to Wiltondale for moose burgers. From here the road got a bit easier and we retraced our steps to Deer Lake where we set up camp for the night. Our campground host, Gerard, was full of interesting stories and ideas. He showed us a few of his classic motorcycles and chatted with us about adventures all across the island and throughout North America. All in all, a fine detour off our route -- highly recommended!
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Mary

(Mark) Aug 4 - 8: St John's, Cape St. Mary's, Placentia

Ok as you have noticed I'm going to preface my posts with (Mark) so you all know who is posting, since I and M+M are now on different paths doing different things.

So what have I been doing recently? Well, August 4 and 5 were days off in St John's for me, I climbed up Signal Hill via North Head which is an amazing trail, checked out the Battery and Quidi Vidi, chatted with Neil at Quidi Vidi Battery, checked out the Anglican and Catholic cathedrals and had tea in the crypt of the Anglican one, went to the Rooms (provincial museum) with its spectacular views, and met some more touring cyclists at the hostel. And that was just on Monday. Tuesday I did laundry and saw a bunch of other sites including the Railway Museum (very interesting), Commisariat House (elegant, somewhat interesting) and various heritage walks around town, and worked on my bike. St John's is really an elegant, lively and interesting city, I really like it - definitely high up on my list of favourite Canadian cities. In the evening my new friend Ben from Toronto who I met in the hostel and I checked out a few bands at the last night of the George St Festival, which was pretty cool.

August 6: 117km to North Harbour. A nice ride, started in a downpour which eased off during the day. I went through Bay Bulls, over the remote Route 13 to the TCH and then down Salmonier Line to Salmonier and Colinet, where I had a few chats with really incomprehensible locals, and went down the river to near North Harbour where I found a beautiful camping spot right on the beach. It rained all night but stopped before I got up, thank goodness.

August 7: 80km to Cape St. Mary's. Well, Alan, you were right - I do believe Cape St. Mary's is one place on planet Earth I feel priviledged to have been able to visit. It really is spectacular and amazing, and the ride down there was very neat too - very remote, cruising across the tundra, I felt like I was in the high arctic. I would try to describe the seabirds at the Cape but suffice to say there are 70,000 of them and the sight and sound (and smell!) is quite incredible. I walked all around the reserve on various trails and spent a fine afternoon there before heading down the road to camp. The nice man at the nature centre pointed me to a fine camping spot and I had a nice view of the sunset. Unfortunately it was supremely buggy so dinner consisted of bagels etc in the tent.
And this day marked 3 months on the trip! Very exciting.

August 8: I just got into Placentia after a very hilly ride up the coast road from the Cape. Beautiful ride! I was stretching my legs outside of town when Andy walked across the road and introduced himself, and one thing led to another and now I am sleeping in the spare room of the house he and Cindy and Christa and we're going to mum's house for a BBQ tonight. The hospitality of strangers never ceases to touch and amaze me!

More updates whenever I get internet next. Quite possibly not for another week, when I will be in Halifax!

Mark

Aug 6: Into Gros Morne National Park

Steady Brook to Lomond River Campground
88 km
5:30 on the bike
15.8 km/ hr average

We had a fine breakfast with a farming couple from Grand Prairie. I wish the morning weather matched breakfast. It was another wet, cool day. Wind was still from the north east (still our direction). But, we loaded the bikes, put on the gortex and headed out. We didn't get too far down the Trans Canada when we were passed by Dave, a fellow X-Canada rider. Dave is from England, and was one of the two British fellows who flew to Victoria, bought their bikes, and all their gear, from Fairfield Bikes in Victoria, and started across Canada. Dave said that the service he got from Fairfield was excellent, so he was only too happy to spend his money there.

We slogged it out in the rain and wind north east on the Trans Canada until we hit Deer Lake. Here we pulled into the Tim Horton's and had a coffee with Dave and Ivan, the cyclist we met yesterday. We dilly-dallayed as much as possible, but finally set out on highway 430 toward Rocky Harbour and Gros Morne National Park.

The weather was starting to improve, and we were beginning to get glimpses of the mountains around Gros Morne. We were also delighted to see Wally, Judy, and Lynne go by in the truck and camper. I wish were staying with them tonight, but they were headed to a campground north of Rocky Harbour, and we were not able to make Rocky Harbour. However, we had a quick meeting on the road and perhaps we will see on another tomorrow in Rocky Harbour or around the area. What a coincidence! -- they are leaving tomorrow on the ferry, so it was our good fortune to see them all again one more time. We didn't ask Wally if he was getting out on the bike!

After we left Wally, Judy, and Lynne we arrived at the Gros Morne park gate and the attendant advised us to head south west down towards Woody Point on the 431 because the last 35 km into Rocky Harbour on the 430 is very hilly. Also, there is a water taxi from Woody Point over to Rocky Harbour and it takes bikes. This will make a nice loop for us. So, we decided to head to Lomond River. At the moment I'm sitting out on the front porch of the office building, enjoying the sunset, and looking forward to a ride through the Tablelands portion of Gros Morne tomorrow, a small boat trip, and, perhaps, a hike up Gros Morne mountain itself. We'll have to see what tomorrow brings.
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Mary

Aug 2 - 5: Two wheels on "the Rock"

Aug 2: Nine down, one to go! Big Bras d'Or to Port aux Basque (Cheeseman Provincial Park) 36 km
After a night camped out in the tent at Jan and Alan's (they had a very full house), Alan gave us a wakeup call at 5:30am and we packed up and were on the road at 6:50 am. Although it was sad to leave the cabin, it was very exciting to think we would soon be hitting our 10th and final province. We were just a duo now as Mark left the day before to take the shorter route to St. John's NFL. Weird to be a duo after all those kms together, but we will see one another in just a few weeks to go over all the details.

Jan made sure we were fed and watered and Kathleen and John also got up to see us off. So, with Alan running down the driveway to catch a few shots of us, we started off into a misty, rainy, and cool morning. We arrived at the North Sidney pier about 22km and 1 hr 10 mins later, in plenty of time for our 9:00 am ferry, only to find it was delayed. I got a bit of a chill waiting in line, so out came the toque (Canada, Aug 2nd: toque, long pants, and sweater required!).

We sailed at about 10:30 am on the Lief Ericson ferry. The trip took six hours. I, who usually am a good sailor, felt a bit off on board and slept most of the trip away in the forward lounge. Mike, who had a bad night and didn't sleep well at all, was in good form and had a fine time roaming around the ship.

Newfoundland was bathed in sunlight and Port aux Basque was a welcome sight. Soon we would be on the road again in a new province. We rode off the ferry at 5:20pm and headed out to Cheeseman Provincial Park. On the way we tried a few metres on the Trans Canada Trail, but it was far too rough for us.

Camping in this part of NFL is cheap -- 13.00 for a tenting site in an excellent campground - showers, grassy site, water -- everything a camper could want. The evening was beautiful, clear and sunny, warm but not humid. After dinner it was early to bed for a full day of riding tomorrow.
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Mary

Aug 3: Port aux Basque to Crabbe's River 95 km 15 km/hr average 6:20 mins on the bike
What a difference in the weather -- this morning was overcast and a bit cool. I decided to wear a long sleeve jersey. We also had a fairly stiff NE wind, so the going was a bit difficult as we were going NE.

We started off the day with a trip to the Barrachois (barrier) beach below our campground. We had a fine view out to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and over to the lighthouse at Cape Ray. As we went back to the Trans Canada Highway and started east we had some amazing views of Table Mountain and the Twin Hills. The Long Range Mountains soon came into view and we could see some of the hiking trails that threaded through these flat-topped peaks.

The next geographical feature we passed through was the Codroy valley. The road meandered through this wide and lush valley, but rolling hills and a strong headwind made this heavy going for us. Our average speed was down. We were travelling on the Trans Canada Highway -- big shoulders and low traffic. The signs on the highway indicated moose, but no luck, we didn't see any.

We pulled into Crabbe's River Campground, close to the Irving Gas Station at the junction of Highway 404. Again, camping was 13.00. This campground was not as perfect as the provincial park, but everyone was friendly, the price was right, and the shower was hot.
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Mary

Aug 4: Crabbe's River Campground to Kippens 87 km 15 km/hr

What a hard day! The wind and rain really took it out of us today. We never had a downpour, mostly a drizzle, but the head wind threw it against us. As well, there are not a lot of services along the Trans Canada in this part of NFL, so 2nd breakfast was hard to come by. We were saved by the Ultamar gas station cafe outside of St. George's. Advice to the cyclist: if you are riding this part of NFL, bring lots of supplies.

The scene on the TCH in this part of NFL, especially in the rain and wind when visibility is poor, is a bit dull. To switch things up a bit we turned off the highway onto the 404 and headed through Cartyville, McKay's, and Robinsons. After 2nd breakfast we headed into St. George's and along the 461 to Stephenville Crossing. Here is was up and over a big headland to Stephenville proper on the north side of St. George's Bay. Views from the top of the headland down the Bay were lovely, even on this stone grey day.

The day was difficult, so we treated ourselves to pizza and a B&B. We are now ensconced out in Kippens and trying to decide what to do next. We may do a ride around the Port au Port peninsula to wait out the north east wind, or we may push on into it and try to get to Corner Brook. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
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Mary

Aug 5: Kippens to Steady Brook (up the Humber from Corner Brook)
100 km
6:48 on the bike
14.5 km/hr average

What a miserable day! Rain, cold (we got up to a blistering 15 degrees today)and a head wind kept our average time down. That we were able to put in 100 km was due strictly to time on the bike. For sheer wetness, this ranks right up there with our wettest day in Brittany during our 2000 tour in France.

We did start the day with a fine breakfast at our B&B in Kippens. The first hour on the road, from Kippens back to Stephenville, and then out to the Trans Canada via Highway 460. This is also known as the Hansen Highway, after Rick Hansen.

By the time we passed Black Duck Siding it had started to rain. The rain was with us for the rest of the day. We joined the TCH and slogged along until Pinchgut Lake, where we hit the only highway cafe we saw all day. Just before PInchgut we met another cross Canada rider. He and his partner (who was ahead) started from Victoria on May 25th. They flew in from England, bought new bikes at Fairfield Bikes in Victoria (Long Haul Truckers -- the same as Charlie's), and started out. These two fellows must have been doing some long days. We didn't stop to talk for long as the rain was really pelting at that point. Hopefully we'll see them tomorrow.

We are currently in a B&B -- the Edgewater Inn -- in Steady Brook. We are right on the banks of the Humber River, just below the Marble Mountain ski resort.

Hopefully the weather will improve tomorrow as we travel on to Rocky Harbour and Gros Morne National Park.
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Mary

July 30, 31, Aug 1: Friends old and new; Feasts here and there

Mike and I spent three wonderful days off the bike enjoying the "down home" hospitality of Jan, Alan, and friends at Big Bras d'Or. Mark arrived on Wed, July 30, and left on Friday Aug 1, and so had two days off to take in the feasts and fun at the cabin on Bras d'Or. We were so pleased to see Jan and Alan, they made us feel completely at home. They also made sure we were wined and dined in Cape Breton style.

I already mentioned the fab lobster chowder on Tuesday evening, but our first evening with Mark at the cabin featured a hickory smoked turkey (ok - Mark didn't have the turkey, but there were lots of other delicacies to sample). The irrepressible Bobbie Nagle joined us for that feast, as did Lynn and Louise, the dynamos of delight from North Sidney. Bobbie is famous for knowing just about every Broadway show tune going, while Lynne and Louise are formidable hikers, and know lots about hiking in Newfoundland.

Our second evening featured another feast. This time it was a feed of mussels and chantrelle mushrooms (picked by Mark, from a cliff below the cabin) up at Bobbie's house. Lynn and Louise joined us for that get together as well. The third evening was a scallop and pesto dinner. Scallops were courtesy of Bobbie. Alan's sister Kathleen and her husband John drove up from Halifax and were there in plenty of time for dinner. Kathleen is a force of nature and one of the only people who can stop Alan in his tracks with just a look (well, Jan can do it too). Visiting from Toronto was Alan's nephew Michael along with his partner Alice. Everyone was gathered for the long weekend, and to help Alan bury cousin Ted's ashes in the St. James churchyard down the road. So, the feast was also a bit of a wake for Ted.

Lest anyone think all we did was eat and drink (although it did snow food and rain drink), let me assure you we did get some exercise in too. On Wed Mike, Alan, Jan and I did the Dalem powerwalk and swim (a 7 km hike to Dalem lake). Later that day Mark and I visited the Alexander Graham Bell museum. On Thursday we all did a classic Cape Breton hike at Lighthouse Point, across the bay from the reconstructed fort of Louisbourg. Our hike was in the Louisbourg National Historic Area, and had us walk through the area where the English off-loaded and set up artillery to shell the fort.

On Friday Mark left for the ferry, while Mike and I did bike chores and helped Jan and Alan get the cabin ship-shape for the upcoming weekend. Of course, we took a salt-water dip every day in the Big Bras d'Or channel, just below the cabin.

We packed a lot into a few short days. It was so wonderful to see Jan and Alan at the cabin. The place really is a Shangri La. It was such a treat to share the experience with them and all their family and friends. Thank you so much Alan and Jan! See you soon in Victoria.

ttfn
Mary

ps: check out their blog at leotaj.blogspot.com

Aug 3: I made it! YAY!!!

Well, I got to Cape Spear today and after having looked at the compass on the front of my bike pointing East all the way across the country, finally I got out to the point of land and the compass pointed East and there wasn't any more land. DONE!!

But a quick review of the last few days:
Aug 2: 52k to Whitburne, NL
Aug 3: 85k to Mile Zero, St John's, and then another 42k with going around town and then going out to Cape Spear in the afternoon/evening, for 127k overall.

The ferry to Argentia was great, I found a nice spot to sleep and we had nice views of the Burin peninsula and Avalon in the morning. Breakfast and lunch were free (because the ferry was late and slow, I guess) so I got two breakfasts and a lunch to fill me up. On the ferry I also met three other guys on bikes, two doing coast-to-coast, all with interesting stories - they were Mark, Donny and Jody, the latter going Toronto to St John's. That afternoon after getting off the ferry I went past Whitburne, passed 8000km and camped in a lovely forest with deep plush moss to sleep on, and I was up early and on the road by 7, all keen to get into town today. I came in on the Trans-Can and then Hwys 90 and then 60 through Conception Bay South and through Topsail and into town that way, which was OK enough, though mostly strip malls through CBS and into St John's, but fairly direct. I rode a few bits of the Trans-Canada Trail, both yesterday (a shortcut between Hwy 100 and Whitbourne) and a few bits today, and they were rideable (especially today - into town it seems to be all nice crushed gravel) but slower than the highway.

I got to town about 1:30 and rode down the waterfront looking for the Mile Zero marker, but I couldn't find it! so I went to the tourist info and it turns out it is not on the waterfront but a few blocks up, next to city hall, so I went there and Mark from the ferry had just arrived as well and was taking pictures with his family from town (he is an expat newfie) so I politely waited until they were done before taking pictures. The marker itself is kind of modest. Oh well. Mark's uncle, after we discussed how cool it was that some of his family were there to meet him, gave me his cellphone and said "call your mother!" I said, "oh I can't do that, it's long distance you know, in fact the most long distance you can get!" but he insisted so I called mum and dad from there, which was pretty neat. I also took photos at the Terry Fox memorial (not as big as Victoria's), at the only spot on the waterfront we could get our bikes down to to dip the wheels (and throw in the pebble, mum), and at the Mile Zero of the Trans Canada Trail.

The hostel in town let me camp in the backyard, and they didn't want to charge me, which is nice. After setting up there I went out to Cape Spear - easternmost point in North America - and back. Thank goodness I left my stuff in town and the bike was empty because there are three honker hills to get over on the way out! It is about 17k and it took me over an hour each way, with an unloaded bike.

And now I'm going to spend a couple of days checking out St John's before heading back to the ferry. I hope to get down to Cape St Mary's on the way.

It feels very strange to be here, end of the road and all. I still can't quite believe it's over, more or less - I still have to get to Halifax, but the point-to-point mentality is gone and I can relax and sort of do what I want, take a bus if I want to get somewhere fast, hitch rides, etc. Probably I'm not likely to do that, just ride all the way, but the point is that I could if I wanted to! I met a guy (named Andrew) in the hostel who has been exploring Nova Scotia and Newfoundland on bike for about a month now and is basically just going where he wants at whatever pace, what a nice way to travel.

Thanks everyone for emails and whatnot of support, it is really great to hear from people at home and hear what you have to think about all this. It still kind of boggles my mind. More updates whenever internet is available...

Mark

PS I won't be posting photos with my blog posts because that requires a card reader, which only Mary has. Sorry!!

Jul 30, 31, August 1: And now we separate

Well, a quick update from me while I wait for the ferry to Newfoundland.

On the evening of July 29 I had a fabulous evening camping on the beach in North Shore with Anna, Jay, Nathan and Natalie who were enjoying their last evening of a trip around the Cabot Trail. It was really fun to hang out with them and see them off the next morning on their return to Lunenburg, and I hope to catch up with at least Anna and Jay in Lunenburg in August or thereafter. Thanks again guys! And thanks to Paul at the pottery shop and Bill and Penela who graciously let us camp on their property down on the water. It was a simply beautiful spot, we saw whales (we think) and tons of seals and seabirds all evening off the beach.

July 30 all 5 of us rode down across the Englishtown ferry and went our separate ways once we hit the Trans-Canada highway again: I headed east to Jan and Alan's at Big Bras d'Or and they headed south towards Baddeck where their vehicle was parked, for the drive back home for them. I was sad to leave them, despite having only known them a day! After arriving at Jan and Alan's and reuniting with everyone, in the afternoon I had the pleasure of meeting the great Bobby Nagel (Alan's neighbour) and going with him, Alan, and Mary into Baddeck where we visited the Alexander Graham Bell museum. That evening the twins Lynne and Louise came over along with Bobby and we had a great feast.

July 31 was a day off (thank goodness) at the cabin, which we filled by going on a lovely hike to the Lighthouse trail along the coast starting across the harbour from the fortress at Louisbourg. It really was a spectacular hike and featured true Atlantic coast, sun and a bit of fog and picking bake-apples and other berries. That evening featured yet another feast featuring PEI mussels at Bobby Nagel's house, again with the twins visiting.

Aug 1: Today I am in North Sydney waiting for the ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland! Very exciting to be hitting the tenth province!! (well, I won't arrive until tomorrow). Sadly however the triumvirate is broken: Mike and Mary will be heading to Port-aux-Basques to cycle all of Newfoundland and perhaps go up to the northern tip, so they will be on the Rock for much longer than I will. I am not going to cycle all of Newfoundland so that I have time to go down to Halifax to meet Cathy. So leaving Alan and Jan's this morning was quite weird, as I was by myself for good once I left their driveway...

So, as for my future plans for the rest of the trip, I will probably be taking the ferry back from NL on the 9th, so I will just be cycling to St John's, staying there for a few days, and then returning (taking a different route) to Argentia for the return ferry to North Sydney. From there I'll have 6 days or so to bike to Halifax where I'll be meeting Cathy who will be arriving on the morning of the 17th. (I plan on taking the eastern shore route down the coast through Sherbrooke to Halifax). We'll be holidaying in Halifax and area and then PEI for two weeks and then I plan on either taking the train or flying back home on or around August 31st, which is when Cathy leaves.

So from now on if you need to get a hold of me email is the only option, and of course my access will be sporadic (as usual)... hopefully my next post will be from MILE ZERO in St John's NL!!

Ciao for now,

Mark